10/1/09

Bangkok/Khao San Road

Bangkok/Khao San Road

From Wikitravel



Khao San Road (ถนน ข้าวสาร Thanon Khao Saan; also spelled Khaosan, Kao Sarn, Koh Sarn and many other variations) is, technically speaking, a small street about three blocks long located about a block from the Chao Phraya River in the Banglamphu district northwest of downtown Bangkok. Backpackers and budget tourists are drawn by some of the cheapest accommodation and travel deals in Thailand.
Khao San Road Market
Khao San Road Market

Understand

The word khao san itself means milled rice and is an attribution to the historical role of this street in the rice trade. The first business to open on Khao San Road was a small hotel aimed at serving civil servants from the provinces who came to Bangkok on business. The hotel was followed by Sor Thambhakdi, a shop selling monks' accessories. It was followed by four similar businesses, and Khao San became known as a "religious road".
Word soon spread about the easy lifestyle and friendliness of the locals. Friends told friends, and before long, the owner of the house started to charge 20 baht for food and lodging. The first commercial guesthouse, called Bonny, opened with six small bedrooms.
Today, there's a lot more than six small bedrooms on offer. In the span of just a couple of blocks, there are bars, food stalls, restaurants, convenience stores, pharmacies, Internet cafés, money changing booths, ATMs, shoe stores, massage parlors, tailors, travel agencies, laundry, boxing gyms, optometrists, endless warrens of suspiciously discounted designer clothes and, oh, rooms for the night.

Get in

Khao San Road Map
Khao San Road Map
Khao San Road is fairly easy to get to from anywhere in Bangkok. Taxis, buses, and river ferry are your main options. While the metro and the skytrain are convenient ways of getting to many places in Bangkok, there is unfortunately no train (yet) that will take you near Khao San Road (or anywhere else on Rattanakosin Island, for that matter).

By plane

The half hourly airport bus, A2, arrives and departs from the corner of Khao San Road, and now serves the new Suvarnabhumi Airport. Buy a ticket (150 baht) from the booth at the airport or on the bus. A meter taxi should cost no less than 300 baht, if using the toll roads (known to Thais as Toll way) which cost up to 65 baht. Traffic during the day can make the toll roads very worthwhile, as it will save time and money. The trip takes around an hour in good traffic, but allow considerable leeway during rush hour as the area around Khao San can get very congested.
See the Bangkok section for info on arriving in town.

By taxi

Even the metered taxis will try to charge you a flat rate of about 200-300 baht to take you to Khao San Road, rather than use the meter (which would mean no more than an 80 baht fare from the Silom district, or 100-150 from Sukhumvit road). The drivers will claim that Khao San Road is "too far away" for the meter, but that's not true; the fact is, they can get away with overcharging tourists, and if you don't take it, the next schmuck down the street might. You should refuse to pay that amount and find an honest taxi. There is no point trying to haggle, as the meter is always cheaper. There is certainly is no shortage of taxis in Bangkok. As a general rule, older drivers tend to be more amenable to the meters, while the younger ones tend to gun for big fares from tourists.
The great majority of taxi drivers are reasonably honest. If they seek to 'quote' a fare, just smile and point at the meter. If they still don't want to use the meter, just hail another taxi. As a general rule, avoid the parked taxis (dishonest drivers prefer to wait for gullible tourists) and hail a moving taxi (red light on dash board indicates available). The majority of taxis are new (less than two years old), and its best to avoid the older taxis as their air-conditioners function poorly, and these drivers tend to be less reliable.

By ferry

Boats on the Chao Phraya River are the cheapest and most scenic way of getting to Rattanakosin Island from the rest of the city. The Central Pier is just outside the BTS Saphan Taksin station; you can take a Chao Phraya Tourist Boat for 13 baht or the Chao Phraya River Express for 18 baht to Phra Arthit (pier number N.13). From there, it's a short (but confusing) walk to Khao San Road. First walk straight in the alley to the main road. Then cross Phra Athit road and walk into the small lane next to 7 Eleven. When you cannot go further, take a left into Soi Rambuttri. Then walk through the street, with a corner through the right. When you get to the big road, take a right. Quickly you will see Khao San Road on the left. Bring a good map, have a good sense of direction, or ask help from a local if you get lost.
The ferries stop running at around 5pm, or will run but stop at fewer locations (and Phra Arthit is not one of them).

By Khlong Ferry

There is one canal left in this area called the Khlong Saen Saeb. The final stop is Tha Phan Fah (next to Wat Saket) and is about 10 minutes walk from Khao San Road. The ferries travel along the canal and stop close to the Siam Centre and Pratunam (Tha Ratchathewi). A ticket will cost you about 12 baht.

By bus

Useful bus lines for travel to/from Khao San Road include the following:
  • Red Bus 2 goes from Sukhumvit Rd to Sanam Luang (Ratchdamnoen Klang Rd), very close to Khao San Road. The route is handy for connections to the Skytrain, the MRT and the Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai), and it passes Pantip Plaza(computer hardware and software center) on the way. 7 baht.
  • Red Bus 3, from Moh Chit (the Northern Bus Terminal) directly to Khao San Road. 7 baht, approx. 30 minutes.
  • Red Bus 15 will take you from Khao San Road to Siam Square.
  • Red Bus 53 goes from Phra Athit Rd near the boat pier to Hualamphong train station, taking an interesting and convoluted route through Rattanakosin and Chinatown. 7 baht, 30 to 60 minutes depending on traffic.
  • Aircon Bus 511 travels right across the city from the Eastern Bus Terminal via Sukhumvit and the Democracy Monument to the Southern Bus Terminal. Warning: Regular (non-express) buses pass by Ratchdamnoen Klang Rd near Khao San, but express buses (with yellow signs) do not!

See



Pronunciation tip
The syllable "khao" is pronounced similarly to the English word "cow", but since the late 1990s backpackers have often been mispronouncing it as "coe" (perhaps confusing it with "koh", meaning "island"; perhaps influenced by the book/movie The Beach). Please help re-introduce the correct pronunciation into the backpacker community by pronouncing it properly.
Although there aren't any famous historical sites to speak of on the road itself, Khao San is on the Rattanakosin island. Around the street, there are a number of old buildings and temples, some of which have been transformed into restaurants and even tattoo parlours, although you will still find quiet family homes if you look deep enough. Aside from some interesting architecture, Banglampoo shows the mix of peoples and heritages that is the character of Bangkok. There are Muslims, Buddhists, Mons, and of course a great number of foreigners in this small area. All of this makes the area an interesting place for a glimpse of Thai life. Thais also appreciate the area for the many types of traditional kanom or Thai snacks and desserts available and the cheap clothing available in the Banglampoo Market (see below).
At the bottom of Khao San is Wat Chana Songkram, which translates as "War Victory Temple". This area was formally given to the Mon peoples who helped the Thai fight off the Burmese centuries ago. The Mon set up a community here and built this temple as well. Many travelers use the temple grounds to connect between Khao San and Phra Athit Rd where the ferry pier is located. The temple is worth a visit, though, with nice murals, crisp sounding temple bells hanging from the eves, Bougainvillea vines and beautiful trees. There is no charge for admission and you are welcome to pay respect to the Buddha images or just find a little tranquility away from the throngs of backpackers on Khao San proper.
Santichaiprakarn Park, just beyond Khao San Road, has a great view of the Chao Phraya river and the ultra-modern Rama VIII suspension bridge. There are many activities going on in the park such as the performing of Thai classical music and juggling, as well as aerobic exercises at 6PM. The park has become a gathering place for new breakdancers to exchange their techniques. The park has Phra Sumen Fort, one of the towers of the historical city wall of Rattanakosin. The canal on the otherside was part of the old city moat. The park is on Pra Athit Rd, which has many old town houses that are now restaurants and cafés. Near the river are a number of old smaller palaces now used by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) and Unicef.

  • Democracy Monument.
  • October 14 Memorial.
  • Wat Bowon Niwet (วัดบวรนิเวศ) This temple is on Phra Sumen Road in the Bang Lamphu area. Built in 1829, it is the shrine-hall of Phra Phutthachinnasi, a very beautiful Buddha image which was moulded in about 1357. This is one of the most important temples of Bangkok, whose one-time chief abbot was King Rama IV before he ascended the throne. King Rama IV and King Rama VII, as well as His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej resided there during their monkhood. Open: Daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., Admission: Free, Tel: 0 2281 2831-3. North of the Democracy Monument, it is an impressive sight. Be careful in the afternoon, as you must take your shoes off, but the ground can start to cook from the heat. Wearing socks would protect you from it.
  • Santi Chai Prakan Pavilion and Public Park (พระที่นั่งและสวนสาธารณะสันติชัยปราการ) The park is on Phra Athit Road on the banks of the Chao Phraya River. It was constructed near Phra Sumen Fort under the cooperation between the Royal Thai Government and the general public to mark the auspicious occasion of the sixth cycle birthday anniversary of His Majesty the King on 5 December, 1999. The spacious area provides a pleasant atmosphere as well as a scenic view of the Chao Phraya River and the Rama VIII Bridge. It is popular among both Thais and foreigners, especially from the nearby Bang Lamphu community. Open: Daily, Admission: Free.
  • Sunset Street Art Gallery, (Inside Sunset Street Complex). daily noon-10PM. Free.  
Famous sites within walking distance from Khao San Road include The Grand Palace (with Wat Phra Kaew), Wat Pho, Sanam Luang (Royal Grounds), Chao Phraya river, Democracy Monument, Wat Rajanadda and the Golden Mount (Phu Khao Thong). See Rattanakosin for details.

Do

  • Sor. Vorapin Gym (13 Trok Kasap, Jakapong Rd., Panakorn, Bangkok 10200; tel. 662 282-3551) [1]. Offers morning (7:30am-9:30am) and afternoon (3:00-5:00pm) training in Muay Thai (Thai boxing) for 400 baht. Beginners and walk-ins are welcome. Shorts and gloves are provided. The English instruction may not be detailed, but key phrases like "punch", "kick", and "one-two" are in place. It's at the end of a dusty alley off Soi Rambuttri.

Pampering

  • Rinda Spa, 84 Phra Athit Rd (Next to 7 Eleven), +66 2 282 3299 (rinda_beauty@hotmail.com). daily 8AM-11PM. Massage parlor that offers Thai, foot, herbal and Swedish oil massages. You can take all the massages for 30, 60, 90 or 120 minutes. B100/30 minutes.  
  • Kinnaree Wellness Beauty and Spa (กินรีสปา), Ratchadamnoen Klang (Demoracy Monument roundabout), +66 2 629 2883 (kawcharekinnaree@hotmail.com). One of the best spas in the area, with traditional and oil massages, and skin treatment. The interior is decorated in traditional Thai style, and the facility also has a Thai restaurant. B400/hour.

Learn

Cooking

  • May Kaidee's 1 [2], One of the best vegetarian restaurants in the area and has been serving foreigners and hippie-types since 1988. You can take cooking classes here for B1200/day; those interested need to give at least a day or so advance notice.
  • May Kaidee's 2, Samsen Road near Soi 1 [3]. An indoor air conditioned vegetarian restaurant with attached guesthouse - cheaper and cooler than May Kaidee's 1.

Buy

Obviously the first place to go shopping is Khao San Road itself. Beside the usual tourist crowd, plenty of locals come here for shopping as well. There are plenty of shops for women's clothing, like dresses, skirts, accessories, shoes and bags, usually for a bargain. For men, there are plenty of stores selling personal-made tuxedos, which are a lot cheaper than in most Western countries. Khao San road is also home to many wholesale silver jewelry stores, but beware of being ripped off. A common scam is to ask a lot more for a gem than it's real value. Other problematic products for sale are counterfeit CDs and DVDs, and even fake diplomas.
The Banglamphu Market north of Khao San Road is a good place to pick up cheap Thai knock-offs of everything, from jeans to Italian sneakers, as well as a few posh Thai silk stores. Food stalls also abound in this area.

Books

  • Aporia Books, 131 Tanao Road, +66 3 6292919. Has a good selection of both new and second-hand English titles, and offers a much more pleasant and organized environment for browsing than the other second-hand book shops on Khao San Road.
  • Bookazine, it has three branches, one at Khao San Road, one at Sunset Street and one at Thanon Chakrabongse. Plenty of travel guides to be found here, as well as foreign magazines and newspapers.
  • Rhim Khob Fa Books, Democracy Monument roundabout. Big and more upscale bookstore with books about Asia and Thai culture.
  • Shaman Books, Mostly for Asian history books, but they also have a collection of English-language novels.
  • Ton's Bookseller, 327-5 Thanon Rambuttri. Books on Thai language and politics.

Eat

Cooking up a storm on Khao San Road
Cooking up a storm on Khao San Road
Khao San Road offers one of the cheapest and most diverse food selections anywhere in Bangkok. Many nationalities of travelers attend the road, therefore many kinds of ethnic food can be found here.
Street carts on the road sell decent phat thai (fried noodles), quail eggs, roti (like a pancake), falafel, hummus, various bugs and some sell just cocktails. However, it's worth noting that much of it is specifically geared for backpackers — even the local phat thai, especially the 10 baht variety, saves money on the ingredients and uses soy instead of the traditional tamarind sauce. Those looking for truly good food would be advised to head elsewhere, such as to Sukhumvit.
As Khao San Road leaves its backpacker roots, standards (and prices) are rising. More mid-range restaurants are opened every day. Popular international outlets Burger King and Starbucks moved in during 2004. Other chain restaurants on the road are McDonald's and Subway.
  • Ethos International Vegetarian and Vegan Restaurant, 82/5 Tanao Rd, +66 2 282 2748, [4]. Behind Aporia Books, this is unique place with an attitude! No MSG, preservatives or artificial colours and flavours, instead you'll be eaten organic dishes from Thai, Indian, Italian and Middle Eastern cuisine. A comfortable place that attracts crowds who are into spirituality and yoga. It has a free WiFi-hotspot. Also try the coffee and deserts.
  • Number One. Behind Aporia Books , this restaurant offers a wide selection of vegetarian dishes, just like the other eateries around it.
  • Sunset Bar & Restaurant, 199 Khao San Road (Inside Sunset Street Complex), +66 2 282 2565, [5]. Offers authentic Thai and International cuisine with live music performance on Thursday to Sunday.  

Budget

  • 147 (147 Tanao Road), Next to Burger King. This is an old standby, serving excellent and cheap Thai dishes. Popular among vegetarians.  
  • Chabad House Kosher Restaurant, 96 Th Rambuttri, +66 2 282 6388. Ideal for Jewish travelers that keep kosher. There is a large meat menu with the opportunity to taste some great kosher Thai cuisine. Or get a schnitzel with hummus. Something different than the usual pad thai on every street corner! They also have a synagogue and a small store, where you can purchase packet soups, matza, and other kosher items.  
  • Mr Yim's, 2 Soi Chana Songkhram. A small restaurant upstairs overlooking the Chana Songkhram temple. They have a wide selection of quality food, including veggie options. The big baguettes, as well as their breakfast, are an excellent value. B30-70
  • Oh My Cod!, 95d Rambuttri Village Inn, Soi Rambuttri, +66 2 282 6553. Ultra clean and modern British café. It is inside the bricked courtyard at the entrance to the Rambuttri Village Inn, where the noise of the alley fades away. Plenty of food available, like burgers, steak, fish and chips, and eggs. They also have plasma screen televisions and a friendly staff. The owner can make a special order if you wish. B60-100.  
  • Popiang House, 43 Soi Rambuttri, +66 2 282 2628. A typical Khao San Road restaurant, though it's actually on Soi Rambuttri. It's a street restaurant with red plastic chairs and cheap yellow tables. Mostly renowned by backpackers for it's delicious seafood and a great place to meet other backpackers while enjoying a cheap beer (only B50 for a large one). Can be crowded on evenings. B60.  
  • Prakorb's House, 52 Khao San Road (Near Airport Bus Stop AE2), +66 2 281 1345. Excellent food in this very friendly, family run budget restaurant (italso has rooms available). Try the vegetarian noodles with a coffee or a selection of herbal drinks.  
  • Sakura House, 98/1 Th Rambuttri (Opposite Viengtai Hotel), +66 2 282 0303. Hard to find Japanese restaurant, as you must enter a lift and get to the upper floor. It's popular with locals for lunch, as visitors have to sit at wooden tables the Japanese way. B40.  
  • Sidewalk Café 1, 208 Khao San Road, +66 2 282 5573. 24 hrs.. Great outdoor people watching spot with large menus.  
  • Take-a-Seat, 90 Phra Athit Rd, +66 2 766 6102. daily 8AM-11.30PM. Simple and clean eatery with Thai and international menus. Try the green curry fried rice. B50-80
  • Wild Orchid, 8 Soi Chana Songkhram, +66 2 629 4378. A good restaurant that offers green and red curries and delicious tom yum soups at low prices. It's also a guest house with rooms available.  

Mid-range

  • Aquatini Riverside Bar & Restaurant, Navalai River Resort, 45/1 Phra Athit Road (At Phra Athit Pier), +66 2 280 9955, [6]. 6.30AM-1AM. Part of the Navalai River Resort, this luxury restaurant with Thai and Western dishes has river view at the Chao Phraya. The interior of the indoor bar has random post-modern touches. It's best to stick outdoors though, as the deck gives the best view on the river. The breeze, trees and light music make the ambiance chilled out. Mostly tourists visit this place though, and the staff make it feel a bit like being in a resort. The kitchen sure knows how to keep their dishes true to the Thai tongue, though. Try the Tom Kha Kai - it's whiter than white. B200-300. (13°45'48.30N,100°29'38.83E) 
  • La Casa, 210 Khao San Road, +66 2 629 1627. daily noon-midnight. Italian restaurant with a professional outlook. It's interesting how they mixed Thai elements like Buddha images into the European interior. The pizzas are good, but skip the pastas. Compared to other restaurants, you get fairly little to what you pay for. B275
  • Ranee's, 77 Trok Mayom, +66 2 282 4072. Hidden amongst spas and small bars and restuarants down an alley that runs parallel to Khaosan Road this Italian restaurant offers the usual pizzas and pastas though you will be better served making a selection from the Thai dishes. The curries are delicious, though the Jungle Curry is made on a watery base and not the coconut that you will have become accustomed to in Thailand. Serving sizes are sufficient but not large. The WiFi is free of charge. Find the entrance to the alley between Gulliver's I and II along Chakkrapong Road. You will need to turn left at the end of Khaosan Road but if you find you come to Sawasdee Khaosan Inn, you have come too far. B150.  
  • Saffron, 86 Th Phra Athit, +66 2 281 4228. daily 8AM-9PM. European-style interior with all the typical Thai dishes. It's also a bakery, and their pies are waiting to be eaten. Just be warned that many of their dishes and drinks are low-fat and low-sugar, so Thai tea doesn't taste that good. Their menus are loved by vegetarians. B100.  
  • Tom Yum Kung, 9 Trok Mayom, +66 2 629 2772, [7]. daily 11AM-2AM. Named after Thailand's national dish, it is one of the best restaurants the area has to offer. It's gigantic neon sign may seem cheesy, but the restaurant itself is very classy. It's square is decorated in traditional Thai style, where the noise of Khao San Road cannot be heard. Try some of the authentic Thai dishes, like Tom Yam Goong or Som Tam, or one of the excellent fish menus. B100.  

Drink

Khao San Road has some of the cheapest bars in town, and these days even some Thais head down to knock back a few. A can of Beer Chang is 25 baht at 7-11. Worth a look are a few street side VW vans converted to mobile bars, serving cocktails made from cheap liquor.

Cafes

You might like a freshly brewed coffee in the early morning, or a coconut or iced chocolate to cool the body in the hot afternoon. There are plenty of cafes serving these on Khao San Road. There is a branch of the chain Coffee World (great brownies!) across from the McDonald's in Buddy's shopping center. Besides coffee, it has great brownies as well. Starbucks can be found in a nice converted house around the middle of the street.
  • Coffee and More, 102/1 Phra-Arthit Road, Chanasongkram (between Khaosan Road and river), Tel: 280-7887. Open: 10AM-9:30PM (11PM at weekends). A pleasant cafe overlooking garden - modern, but cosy decor. Wide selection of coffees and teas and great cakes. Breakfast options limited. Popular with young up-and-coming Thais.

Bars and pubs

  • Bangkok Bar, 149 Soi Rambuttri, +66 2 629 4443. daily 6PM-1AM. Popular pub in the Soi Rambuttri area. It is attached to the guesthouse Sawasdee House. 
  • Brick Bar, 265 Khao San Road, +66 2 629 447, [8]. Ska and reggae bar with live music performances. The interior is in old-fashioned Western style. Very popular with locals, and extremely crowded in weekends. B150
  • Gulliver's Traveler's Tavern, 2/2 Khao San Road, +66 2 629 1988 (fax: +66 2 629 1989), [9]. daily 11AM-1AM. A sports pub with billiards. At daytime, it offers mid-range Western food, while it gradually turns into a rather wild dance party as the night wears on.  
  • Hippie de Bar, 46 Khao San Road (Follow Tom Yum Kung neon sign), +66 1 820 3762. daily 11AM-1AM. Psychedelic interior with mismatched furniture, but not really hippie style. Outside is a nice place to chill with a beer or cocktail. It's a bit off the main street, so no noise from there, but the (reggae and tropical) music is a bit too loud for talking. B100.  
  • Lava, 209 Khao San Road. daily 8PM-1AM. Go down the steps to one of the more modern and Western owned bars on the road. Sunday nights are good.  
  • Molly Pub, 108 Th Rambuttri, +66 2 629 4074. daily 1PM-1AM. Nice atmosphere as it is a colonial-style building. Nice for people watching.  
  • Mulligans Irish Bar, 265 Khao San Road, +66 2 629 4477, [10]. 24 hrs.. Opened in 2009, this Irish pub has a daily promotion between 8PM and 2AM (B100 for beer and cocktail). The terrace downstairs is relaxed. No music, but the atmosphere is still good as soft music comes from the other side of the street. Great for talking and people spotting. Upstairs has live music.  
  • Sabai Bar, 199 Khao San Road (Inside Sunset Street Complex), +66 2 282 2565, [11]. This Thai/Western bar and restaurant offers a good view on the road. Nice place to sip a beer. 
  • Silk Bar, 129-131 Khao San Road, +66 2 281 9981 (info@silkbars.com), [12]. daily 6AM-1AM. Every day after 6PM, this place is packed with customers till late at night. It has the best view on the road, which makes it great for people watching.  
  • Susie Pub, 108/5-6 Th Rambutri, +66 2 282 4459, daily 11AM-2AM. The pub that started it all. Owners of the pub have branched out to owning Austin Pub, Tom Yum Kung and The Club. Usually packed and playing pop music.  

Nightclubs

  • The Club, [14]. The best club on Khao San Road and you can't miss it, as it has a huge neon sign. It has an interesting open design.  
  • Sanook Club, 199 Khao San Road (Inside Sunset Street Complex), +66 2 282 2565, . Small club, seems more like a VIP room.  

Sleep

Khao San Road is Bangkok's main backpacker guesthouse centre. Since places spring up and disappear on a monthly basis, accommodation and restaurants are hard to recommend. Before checking into an unfamiliar place, always ask to see a room first, and don't be afraid to test the fan or the air-con if you think you'll need it.
Note that some Khao San Road guesthouses don't accept Thai guests - or any "extra" guests at all, in some cases.
  • Bhiman Inn, [16]. Sister hotel of the Viengtai and is a bit cheaper. About a 5 minute walk North of Khaosan Road. Staff friendly, good swimming pool, but poor breakfast offering very little choice. 
  • Viengtai Hotel, [17]. The breakfast is superb, offering most choices in cuisine and they have a swimming pool. Large room with air conditioning. This hotel is a popular destination for Thais visiting Bangkok. Staff are superbly efficient and friendly as they are in most hotels. 1300 baht.  
  • Navalai River Resort, 45/1 Phra Athit Road, Phranakorn, Bangkok 10200. Located in the middle of the stunning Riverside view of Chao Pra Ya river and surrounded by the sounds of River flourishing. Style of the interior that combine the Thai traditional design presents through the Modern way with the passionate decorations to take your breath and the most spectacular room.
Keep in mind that anything on the main drag will be loud, and anything with exterior windows will get hot. Try walking a block or two off Khao San proper to find something a little quieter. The street past the police station end of the block (Soi Rambuttri) has reasonable little bars and restaurants that are starting to spill out onto the sidewalk. The road gets darker and quieter as it wraps around the wat (temple) grounds. The post office end also has a few original spots - including a great veggie restaurant and cooking school; the area just beyond the park has a number of small river-front guesthouses which can be an escape from the noise and chaos.

  • Bella Bella, (Five minute walk from K.S. Guest House and ten from Khao San, near the river.). Very clean and new, if somewhat spartan rooms. Internet access, food and beer. From 200 baht
  • Central Guest House, Soi Bowanlungsri (Off Khao San Road), +66-2-282-0667. Basic rooms, free Internet access. From 100 baht (Single, no window).  
  • Green Guesthouse, (Right next to Merry V Guesthouse). Some rooms are cleaner than others - inspect before checking in. From 150 baht.  
  • K.S. House Guest House, 133 Phrasumen Road (5 minutes walk from Khao San Road.), +66-2-629-1763, [18]. Restaurant/café with great food set on the roof top. Free Wi-Fi does not reach all rooms though (calculate 300 baht for good connection in-room). Breakfast not included even though the website says so. Very friendly staff. From 200 baht.  
  • My House Guest House. Clean rooms and good food. From 180 baht.  
  • New Joe Guest House, 81 Trokmayom Charakpongse Rd, +66-2-281-2948, [19]. Has a restaurant/café with great food set in the garden. Also offers internet, and a bar at good value for money. From 300 baht.  
  • New Merry V. A good low budget option. Offers luggage storage service for 10 baht per bag per day. From 140 baht (Single, no window).  
  • New Siam Guest House, 21 Soi Chanasongkram, +66-2-281-7461, [20]. Just enough off the main drag to be quiet. They advertise having the largest rooms for the price, and they do seem that way. Clean and well maintained with friendly staff and safe boxes in some rooms and lockers downstairs. The restaurant menu is basic and the food none too exciting but the sofas are good to meet people. 220-570 baht.  
  • Pen Park Place, 22 Samsen Soi 3, Samsen Road (10 minutes walk from Khaosan Rd in the direction of the Rama VIII Bridge), (66) 02-281-4733 (reservation@penparkplace.com, fax: (66) 02-281-8114), [21]. Good price in peaceful environment.Clean and quite place with nice garden and river view top-roof.Large room with wide window. Super hi-speed internet and free wifi. A good place to relax,meet friend,and have morning coffee. 280-750 baht.  
  • Prakorb's House, 52 Khao San Road, +66-2-281-1345. An old guest house with simple but clean rooms.  
  • Rambuttri Village Inn, 95 Soi Ram Buttri, Chakkra Phong Road, Phra Nakorn, Bangkok, +66-2-282-9162, [22]. Quiet series of buildings with squeaky-clean rooms (yes, it's true that they clean between the tiles with a toothbrush) and relaxing rooftop swimming pools. Rooms range from basic fan rooms (few and seldom available) to deluxe fan/air-con rooms (more common). 1000 baht refundable key deposit. Luggage storage for 20 baht per day. Two cafe's are situated in the entry courtyard providing good Thai or British/American pub food, from breakfast through dinner. Not a scruffy backpacker hostelry, a nice motel/hotel with good 24 hour desk security. 290-590 baht.  
  • Sawasdee Bangkok Inn, (Located in the middle of Khao San Road), [23]. This budget hotel give you a old Thai-Style hotel in quiet and friendly atmosphere. With private bathroom with hot water and a cable TV, accompanied with 24 hours security and room service.  
  • Sawasdee Banglampu Inn, [24]. Modern Thai-Style hotel in quiet and friendly atmosphere. With private bathroom with hot water and a cable TV, accompanied with 24 hours security and room service.  
  • Sawasdee Krunthep Inn, Soi Rambutri, [25]. Small & Cozy. Quiet, clean and good service. 520-1200 baht.  
  • Sawasdee Khaosan Inn, Chakrapong Rd (Next to Airport Bus Station), [26]. Features private bathroom with hot water and a cable TV, accompanied with 24 hours security and room service.  
  • Sawasdee Smile Inn, [27]. Unique colonial architecture, more than 100 rooms available. From 350 baht.  
  • Siam Oriental Inn, +66-2-629-0312, [28]. Nice, clean and quiet rooms (both fan and air-con), all with private bathroom, plus a lively restaurant and a quiet internet café and photo-processing facilities. From 280 baht
  • Star Dome Inn, Rambuttri Rd (Three minute walk from Khaosan Road), [29]. checkout: 11:30. 250B=1 Person Fan Room / 300B=1-2 Persons Fan Room / 400B=1-2 Persons AC Room / All come with private bathroom with cold water (hot water in upgraded rooms) Internet/Computers available 60B per hour Laundry services  
  • Wally's House. Very basic with little facilities that are shared, but for the traveler on a very tight budget, it's ideal. Internet access for 30 baht/hour. From 180 baht (Twin room).  
  • Welcome Sawasdee Inn, Soi Rong Mai (Off Soi Rambutri), [30]. 5 minutes walk to the National Museum and Ferry. Clean, quiet, and comfortable. 280-700 baht.  

Mid-range

There are several better class hotels in the area, with swimming pools, mini bars, etc. In addition to the large hotels the Royal Hotel and the Vieng Tai, there are a number of smaller, high-quality guest houses available.
  • Amarin Inn, tel +66-2282 2444, Quality guest house located away from the noise of the main street but only a few minutes walk away from the action. Clean and spacious rooms, all with air-con and en-suite bathrooms, with very friendly staff. A unique attribute is that guests are allowed onto the roof to look at the Bangkok skyline, a rarity in the area. Prices from 650-1400 baht.
  • Buddy Lodge, tel +66-26294477, [31]. Right on the main road, prices from 1600-2500 baht.
  • The Four Inn, tel +66-22800601, [32].
  • D&D Inn, tel+66-62905268 [33]. A huge (by KSR standards) hotel with a roof-top swimming pool, massage facilities, and a very clean and efficient 24 hour internet café. All rooms have attached bathrooms, air-con and TV; rates include breakfast and use of the pool. Singles 550/450 baht (with/without window), doubles and twins 750 baht, triples (one double and one single) 1000 baht, family/VIP 1,350 baht. NB: This hotel is not convienient for travelers arriving early in the morning as they do not allow check-in until after 1PM.
  • Khao San Palace Inn. A large guest house with an impressive entrance. Rooms have cable television (with CNN), cold/hot shower, air conditioning/fan and there is a rooftop pool. Rooms are clean, but not too large, and locals are not allowed to enter. Be aware that rooms overlooking Khao San Road are noisy at night. B300 fan and cold shower, B500 a/c and hot shower.  
  • Banglumpoo Place - A friendly place located at the main road in the center of the capital of Bangkok. The apartment-style rooms are situated a walking distance from Khao San Road (only 5 minutes). Banglumpoo Place is a great alternative to the hustle and bustle on the strip. A great guest house near Khao San Road, well worth checking out. Double standarad room 500 - 750 Baht/ night. All are private bathroom with bath tub, hot shower. Place is not the best to have, lots of mould in room (2008)
[34]
  • Rikka Inn - New hotel on Khao San with basic modern-style rooms, 800 baht gets a double room with A/C and en-suite but not much more. 1000 baht deposit. Swimming pool on roof is an attraction, but only open from 10am. Small and large safe deposit boxes available at 20/40 baht per day.
  • Thai cozy house +66-26295870-4 [35]. Family run guesthouse with restaurant which also provides a travel agent, tailor shop, Internet, massage & spa services.
  • Diamond House[36]. The Diamond House is an outstanding hotel in a prime position
with main commercial and shopping area from 1200-2000 baht.

Cope

  • Wearever Laundromat.
You can store your backpack for B10 a day at Lamphu House (75-77 Soi Rambuttri). You do not need to be a hotel guest for this service.

Contact

Internet cafés are rivaled only by tuk-tuks for sheer ubiquity on Khao San Road. Sawasdee Bangkok Inn offers 3 computers that you need to insert 10 baht for 15 mins located in the middle of Khao San Road. The standard rate is 1 baht for 1 minute so 30 mins would be 30baht. Virtually all are set up for Skype and plain old international phone calls. Be aware that some cafes have applied limitations on their terminals to prevent users from uploading digital files (photos, etc.) - ensure that you check whether this is the case before paying for a service which may be useless for your purposes.

Stay safe

As everywhere else in Bangkok, if someone offers you a great one-day-only sale on gems, smile faintly and keep on walking.
Cheap tourist bus, mini-van, and airline tickets are available at any of the dozens of travel agents in the area.
For the airport, bus no. 556 departs from halfway between Khao San Rd and Democracy monument (look for the half-torn airplane sign on the bus stop sign), costs 33 baht and is as fast as the "tourist" bus.

While there are many travel agencies in Bangkok and Thailand as a whole, please only buy tickets from IATA accredited travel agencies. If you buy a ticket from non IATA agent, that agent will buy the ticket for you from a wholesaler. Recently a few air ticket wholesalers filed for bankruptcy. When they file for bankrupcy, they do not honor refunds to the agents that buy tickets from them. So if you will ever need a refund for a ticket that you have purchased, it is safer to buy from a respected established IATA travel agency, which will owner then refund you, not say that they are just reselling the ticket! Especially avoid buying air ticket from small tour desks on Khao San Road. Many of them are fly by night operations.You will only save a few hundred Baht when buying from them, but if they split and the ticket has not been issued yet, or you need a refund for the ticket, you will lose your money!

Get out

  • The Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Wat Arun and the other major sights of Rattanakosin, 10 minutes by boat from Phra Athit Pier or 40 minutes on foot.
  • Only on weekends, the Taling Chan Floating Market in Thonburi can be reached by bus 79 from Rajdamnoen Klang (near Democracy Monument).
  • Vimanmek Palace, at the northern side of Rattanakosin, 10 minutes by boat from Phra Athit Pier.
  • Royal Barges National Museum, just at the other side of the Pinklao bridge in Thonburi, 20 minutes on foot.
Popular day-trip destinations include Ayutthaya and Kanchanaburi. The cost of the tour - usually 450-600 baht - will include transportation to and from the destinations and one meal. Shop around, because prices do vary, and are not necessarily connected to the quality of the service you'll receive. The travel agents are simply passing you on to another company that will conduct the tour, so you may be in a van with five other people who booked through five different travel agents at five different prices. Although these trips are cheap and require no planning on your part, they offer plenty of frustration as well. The other people in your van may all have booked slightly different itineraries, so you may find yourself spending the morning somewhere that's not of interest to you, only to be rushed along with half an hour in the afternoon at the one place you really wanted to see. Although the travel agent will show you a meticulously planned minute-by-minute itinerary, the day will inevitably feature at least one (long) stop at a commission-paying handicrafts shop, and the schedule will never recover. The day-trips are a decent way to pass some time, but if the destination is somewhere you've been looking forward to seeing, you're much, much better off doing it independently.
Visas for other Southeast Asian countries can also be obtained on your behalf from the Khao San travel agencies. Popular destinations include Chiang Mai in the north, Phuket in the south, Angkor Wat in the east (in Cambodia), and various islands off the coast. See also the One month in Southeast Asia itinerary.
While convenient and honest to a certain extent (ie. if sold a ticket to Siem Reap, you eventually will probably get to Siem Reap) and seemingly cheap, many of the agencies operating here have turned scamming into an art form. The "VIP buses" you are promised turn into clapped-out minibuses, you are likely to be hit for extra charges for various dubious services along the way and many operators will intentionally slow down the journey so you arrive in the middle of the night and can be coaxed into choosing their guesthouse — invariably the crappiest place in town which just happens to pay the agency the highest commissions. Worst of all, since you have paid in advance, you have no recourse of any kind when this happens! It will generally be faster and cheaper to use regular public BKS buses from the main bus terminals.